The Esterlin cooperative's non-vintage cuvée is crisp and clean, but with a slightly bitter character that likely comes from bottle aging. It's starting to show hints of toastiness as well mature pear flavors.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.