Etude's Heirloom bottling is vintage-driven, and the 2005 is a great wine. It's a powerhouse that in its youth is full-bodied and almost heavy. It shows massive flavors of red currants, cherry pie filling, cola, figs and spices that taste like they were baked into a dessert pastry, except that the finish is thoroughly dry. What's hard to communicate is the wine's dazzling structure. Not meant to be opened now, it's a Pinot Noir to store through 2010, as it husbands its strength and gains bottle complexity.