Dramatically ripe, offering tiers of cherries, black raspberries, blackberries and cola, with the toast and vanilla spice of oak barrels. Very extracted in fruit now, sweet and jammy, almost rustic, with crisp acidity. The question is whether it will age. The vineyard is exceptional, home to great bottlings from Fulcrum, Sojourn, Patz & Hall, MacPhail and Roessler, among others. It's a bit of a gamble, but try giving it six years in a cool cellar.