The extreme eastern vineyard of the Wachau is a stony valley, giving an extreme wine, all mineral and cool, poised fruit even in a warm year like 2006. Yes, there are pears and currant fruit flavors, but the wine goes more towards the lime and salt, to fit with its austere structure. Age for at least 10 years.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.