Musky, heady notes of ripeness move within the pear scent of this serious Federspiel. Their richness is countered by grapefruit peel that gives verve and nerve to the entire wine, corsetting its ripeness with delicious citric acidity. There is a phenolic dimension, too, but that fizzling citrus freshness is just so much fun. This will stay fresh and exciting for a long time. Drink from 2016.
Reviews wines from Austria, Alsace and England
German-born but London-based, Anne Krebiehl MW is a freelance wine writer contributing to international wine publications. She also lectures, consults and translates and has helped to make wine in New Zealand, Germany and Italy. She adores acidity in wine and is thus perfectly suited to her Austria/Alsace/England beat. Her particular weaknesses are Pinot Noir, Riesling and traditional-method sparkling wines.