F X Pichler 2013 Loibner Burgstall Federspiel Riesling (Wachau)

Musky, heady notes of ripeness move within the pear scent of this serious Federspiel. Their richness is countered by grapefruit peel that gives verve and nerve to the entire wine, corsetting its ripeness with delicious citric acidity. There is a phenolic dimension, too, but that fizzling citrus freshness is just so much fun. This will stay fresh and exciting for a long time. Drink from 2016. Anne Krebiehl MW

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