A barely-there glimpse of lemon bids you to step closer and take a sip. The palate unfolds in a still tightly contained bundle of lemon zest and juiciness. There is an undertow of riper texture, reminiscent of bitter orange zest and just as full of aromatic promise. This is wiry and slender but will mellow into seductive freshness and slick, almost cheeky tartness. With this concentration, it has all the makings of a flavor bomb and is something to really look forward to. Drink 2018–2030.
Reviews wines from Austria, Alsace and England
German-born but London-based, Anne Krebiehl MW is a freelance wine writer contributing to international wine publications. She also lectures, consults and translates and has helped to make wine in New Zealand, Germany and Italy. She adores acidity in wine and is thus perfectly suited to her Austria/Alsace/England beat. Her particular weaknesses are Pinot Noir, Riesling and traditional-method sparkling wines.