F X Pichler 2014 Loibner Loibenberg Smaragd Riesling (Wachau)

The nose is a tease of subtle mandarin and lemon zest, promising but not giving away very much at all. The alluring juiciness of the palate hints at small, yellow mirabelle plums but as of yet merely plays at the surface. Underneath it all is a solid powerhouse bursting with Seville orange, freshness and precision. Another one to keep, guard and treasure for a precious but enlightening soirée. The endless length reinforces that promise. Drink 2018–2025. Anne Krebiehl MW

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