F X Pichler 2016 M Smaragd Grüner Veltliner (Wachau)

This leads with a ripe, tropical whiff of pineapple that's subsumed into a more savory notion of celery-salt and miso. The concentrated palate similarly juxtaposes salty miso with bright lemon notes. In the end, the saltiness triumphs and leaves you wanting more. A compact but very concentrated wine that's full of flavor and has a lip-smacking finish. Anne Krebiehl MW

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