Big and grainy, this is a heavily textured wine, somewhat extracted with an edge of bitterness. The fruit, though, redeems the wine: It is concentrated and deeply flavored, with fine, fresh acidity coming through.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.