The acidity is still there in this now-mature wine, keeping it lively while all the mature flavors swirl around. Pepper and richness combine, while sweetness has lost to intense power and concentration. There is a flavor of toast, of dark toffee leaving a rich, almost dry aftertaste.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.