Fiddlehead 1999 Oldsville Reserve Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley)

This Burgundian-style baby is a big, dense, chewy wine. It's like a mouthful of grilled meat, ripe beefsteak tomatoes, blackberries and pepper, with a dash of soy. In other words, complex. It's also very dry and fairly tannic, an obvious cellar candidate. —S.H.

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