This is an unexpected wine, unoaked Baga in the Alentejo rather than its home territory of Bairrada. The result is a wine that certainly hasn't lost its fierce tannins while gaining a rich, full black fruit character. The typical acidity is there, again mitigated by the warmer climate away from the ocean. It's a surprisingly impressive wine to drink now.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.