This is a big wine with an attention grabbing name. While it is rich, full of black fruit and solid tannins that will allow it to age, the alcohol does stand in the way of it fulfilling the ambition its name suggests. So treat this as a powerful, dense wine, at the moment with juicy young fruit, that will be best drunk from 2017.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.