A cool climate has given this wine bracing acidity and gentle-yet-persistent tannins. Its flavors of wild raspberries and cherries, with spice and mineral overtones, are delicious. There's a feral quality that expresses umami perfectly, suggesting butter-sautéed, tamari-splashed mushrooms and crisped prosciutto. The oak is powerful and present in the form of toast and sweet vanilla, but perfectly balanced with the wine's volume. For all its richness, the wine finishes bone dry. Drink this impeccable Pinot Noir now through 2020.