Fog Crest 2012 Estate Elevage Chardonnay (Russian River Valley)

Dark golden-yellow, this opens with inviting notes of toasted caramel. It remains bright in citrus on the palate, getting riper and steamier as it goes, developing deeper, richer flavors of preserved lemon and baked pear. From the winery's estate, this is a small-production wine well worth seeking. Virginie Boone

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