Forty-Five North 2017 Lemberger (Lake Michigan Shore)

Fresh cranberry, wild raspberry and plum-skin aromas are joined by notes of dried kitchen herbs, sage brush and floral aromas on the nose. The palate is light and juicy, with bright acidity laden in cherry, raspberry and strawberry flavors. Chalk dust tannins lightly add texture and structure, grounding notes of chocolate and coffee. This feels tightly wound with a bright vein of acidity. White pepper and cocoa powder are joined by ripe red plums on a long, cozy (bordering on savory) finish that has an unfortunate tree bark-like bitter edge. Fiona Adams