If this bottling is any indication, Picpoul may be Paso Robles' best chance at becoming better known for white wines. Tense chalk, baking soda, pomelo pith and lime skin aromas show on the fresh and compelling nose. The palate is tightly wound and nervy, showing clean, grippy kumquat and citrus rind flavors. That tension holds firm even days after opening.
A fifth generation Californian originally from San Jose, Matt Kettmann covers California’s Central Coast and South Coast for the magazine. He is also the senior editor of The Santa Barbara Independent, where he’s worked since 1999, has written for the New York Times, Time Magazine, Wine Spectator, and Smithsonian, and co-founded New Noise Santa Barbara, a music festival.Email: firstname.lastname@example.org.