A beautifully elegant, focused wine, full of racy, steely fruit, managing to combine fullness with lightness and an intensely dry aftertaste. Hirtzberger's 29-acre vineyard is in the western Wachau village of Spitz, where the Rieslings are aged in large acacia wood barrels.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.