A full-bodied, spicy style of Grüner that still keeps its sense of minerality and structure. The wine is fruity, its pear flavors dominant at first. But then the concentration and the freshness both deepen the taste and lift it at the same time. An impressive wine, epitomizing both rich Grüner and a taut, cool-climate character.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.