Chervil, lovage, watercress and yeast swirl headily on the nose. The palate subsumes these in a tight, taut, savory core of immense energy and power. There is muscle and tone, power and punch. If you are looking for a superlatively spicy, long-lived Grüner, this is the one to get. Underneath you will find notions of stone and earth that anchor this firmly. The finish is clean and long. Drink 2017–2020.
Reviews wines from Austria, Alsace and England
German-born but London-based, Anne Krebiehl MW is a freelance wine writer contributing to international wine publications. She also lectures, consults and translates and has helped to make wine in New Zealand, Germany and Italy. She adores acidity in wine and is thus perfectly suited to her Austria/Alsace/England beat. Her particular weaknesses are Pinot Noir, Riesling and traditional-method sparkling wines.