Densely structured, this wine has rich, polished fruit but rough tannins, a curious combination. The wood element is very obvious here, which spoils the already delicious black fruit flavor. Give it time, perhaps.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.