This must be one of the most familiar nonvintage Champagnes, so it's good to be able to report that it is much improved. The dosage has been lowered, and there is considerable freshness, crispness with apple and toast. It is full-bodied but well balanced.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.