Gago 2000 Dehesa Gago (Toro)

This, the “second wine” from Gago, has less depth than its big brother, but greater overt appeal in many ways—a scaled-down version of similar elements. Decidedly more accessible, it's lighter, shows more fruit and wears less oak. On the nose, the dark fruit displays a creaminess and a faint lavender note that offsets the classic Tinta de Toro meat and earth. Round in the mouth, its dark chocolate and coffee elements play out on the long, solidly tannic finish. Drink now through 2005. Best Buy. —M.M.