Gary Farrell 2002 Rochioli-Allen Vineyards Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley)

Paler in color, lighter in body than most of his Russian River neighbors, and higher in acidity, this cherry-infused wine, with its voluptuous coating of oak, is more Pinot-like than the Syrah-like Pinots that are currently critics' darlings. In its youth, it seems awkward, even simple, but could be a keeper.

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