Gary Farrell 2009 Rochioli Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian River Valley)

This is the winery's best Chardonnay, but that's no surprise given its source: the famous Rochioli Vineyard. Right now, it's dominated by new oak influence, with buttered toast, butterscotch and caramel flavors. But there's an intense core of pineapples, oranges, green apples, nectarines and apricots, and the finish is absolutely dry. The vineyard's minerality and the Russian River's acidity provide balance. Give it until the summer of 2013, and then enjoy it for several more years.

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