Gary Farrell 2015 Rochioli Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley)

This head-turning wine was made from vines planted in the 1970s and 1990s—a selection that shocks with its complex beauty. Pine forest and Christmas spice notes accent cranberry, rhubarb and tart citrus flavors, all seemingly infused with seductive smoke. At its juicy core is an earthy, mushroomy component. Virginie Boone

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