The Beaujolais Villages appellation adds weight to this Nouveau. There is structure, some density, and firm but not bitter tannins. A banana flavor is everywhere, edging between the fruit and freshness. The aftertaste works, though, with its lively, smoky character.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.