This is a serious, tannic wine that has a mineral edge to go with the tight fruit. It is, in fact, ageworthy—for a year or two, with the dry character needs to soften. At the end, the sweet Gamay fruits triumph.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.