This is tight, showing bitter red berries as well as firm tannins. It has an awkward rough animal character that underlies the crisp acidity. The finish is better, showing delicious red cherries and layered freshness. Glass stopper.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.