Giant Steps 2019 Sexton Vineyard Pinot Noir (Yarra Valley)

From north-facing slopes and at lower elevation than sister wine, “Applejack,” this single-vineyard Pinot is initially dense and quiet, taking time to reveal its charms. As it warms, it unravels notes of cherries, plums, spring flowers and spice, with earthier bass notes of smudged charcoal and something more sanguine. The winemaking prowess shows on the palate. It has weight and power but also elegance in the form of well-integrated, sandpaper-like tannins and savory spice amid the concentrated fruit. Still a baby, this could cellar until 2029 at least. Christina Pickard