Giant Steps 2021 Wombat Creek Vineyard Chardonnay (Yarra Valley)

From the highest-altitude vineyard in the Yarra on volcanic loam soils, Wombat Creek really walks to its own beat. The lemony vibrancy typical to Chardonnay in this region is present, but here it's more like the whole lemon (flesh, rind, juice)—round, fleshy and pithy. There are white orchard blossoms, nashi pear and minerally, saline characters. The palate is tightly structured, yet beautifully balanced, walking a tightrope of power and delicacy. It's chalky, even a bit yeasty, with a round shape, mineral acidity, and a long lemon-flower-chalk finish. A complex, fine Chardonnay for drinking now and likely through this decade. Christina Pickard