This is a challenging wine, but it takes bravery to make Pinot Grigio like a red wine, using amphorae and terra cotta along the way. It's pink, but not a rose. Zesty aromas of tangerine, wet stone and grapefruit skins also show a bit of yeast. There is strong kumquat tang to the sip, which is fairly sour without the ripeness one might expect from the color.
A fifth generation Californian originally from San Jose, Matt Kettmann covers California’s Central Coast and South Coast for the magazine. He is also the senior editor of The Santa Barbara Independent, where he’s worked since 1999, has written for the New York Times, Time Magazine, Wine Spectator, and Smithsonian, and co-founded New Noise Santa Barbara, a music festival.Email: firstname.lastname@example.org.