Impressively dense, this darkly fruited, well-oaked red delivers large-scale flavor and texture. Yes, there's plenty of oak, but there's something so often lacking, too—a wealth of deep, brawny fruit. This dark berry, espresso and licorice-tinged tour de force closes with solid tannins and will reward cellaring. Drinkable now, but best from 2004–2000. Editors' Choice. —M.M.