From Toro, the DO that's just west of Rueda (and the last DO through which the Duero flows before it hits Portugal), comes this 100% Tinta de Toro, which is the local name for Tempranillo. Most of what you get on the nose is burned butterscotch—it's hard to tell what lies beneath. Dark berry and charred oak open the front palate; at midpalate, a little espresso joins in. Dry tannins and char flavors make for a strong, bowl-you-over finish. —D.M.