Even in Mendocino, growing Pinot Noir on these sunny ridgetops is controversial. This one is certainly ripe and fruity enough, filled with gobs of black raspberry and cherry flavors, and telltale silky tannins. The appellation may yet define itself for the varietal. But for now, as tasty as it is, it seems heavy-handed, and lacks the subtlety delicacy Pinot wants. —S.H.