Gritsch Mauritiushof 2018 Atzberg Smaragd Steilterrassen Grüner Veltliner (Wachau)

Ripe pear peel, dried lemon rind, crushed dandelion leaf and yeast are impressive on the nose. The flowing, generous palate has fruit and texture in equal measure, registering a lovely, yeasty, salty depth, with herbal savor and ripe, juicy notions of Mirabelle. This is big, but not heavy, concentrated and impressive yet toned. Anne Krebiehl MW

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