The dryness of botrytis dominates this wine. There is a sweet undercurrent, but the main feature is of baked apple skins, tight structure and spice. It does need aging for all these features to come together.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.