As generous with its wood as its fruit, this is a wine in development. The elements are all there—the mineral structure, dark fruits and firm tannins. But at this stage, fruit is dominated by wood. Give it another 2–3 years. Screwcap.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.