Glorious notes of ripe Golden Pearmain apples shine in the glass. They are amplified by the autolytic depth of biscuit and dough. The palate is rounded and poised, carried aloft by an elegant, creamy mousse highlighting lemon at one point, chalk and bread the other. This makes no concessions to ordinary prettiness but stands as a serious, well-brought-up wine with a straight, upright back. The longer you linger, the more you find: a touch of honey or candied lemon, chalk and baked apple, Demerara sugar and naked stone. The finish is dry and long—making you crave more.
Reviews wines from Austria, Alsace and England
German-born but London-based, Anne Krebiehl MW is a freelance wine writer contributing to international wine publications. She also lectures, consults and translates and has helped to make wine in New Zealand, Germany and Italy. She adores acidity in wine and is thus perfectly suited to her Austria/Alsace/England beat. Her particular weaknesses are Pinot Noir, Riesling and traditional-method sparkling wines.