Vulcano is the German spelling. Quite a mix of grapes, here: Blaufränkisch, Cabernet Sauvignon, Zweigelt and Merlot. One of Austria's top red winemakers, Hans Igler revels in the power of this wine, taming it with smooth tannins, new wood and rich density. The one downside is that it needs to be drunk fast, falling apart in the bottle after 30 minutes.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.