Harbes Family Vineyard 2007 Old Barn Merlot (North Fork of Long Island)

Although the plush plum and coffee grind flavors combine seductively with hints of bramble and earth in this rustic, full-bodied wine, pervasive notes of char and a stalky, green character make this wine a bit clunky. Sturdy tannins, combined with black spice and tar drive a long finish. Anna Lee C. Iijima

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