Syrupy and dense, this brings super-ripe blackberry fruit, mocha and butterscotch. What sets it apart from similar California efforts is that it retains natural acids and some lovely herbal highlights, so it's not just a hot, heavy, alcoholic date—the sort that breathes in your ear and leaves you exhausted but somehow unsatisfied. If you like big, brawny Zin, but want some structure along with it, this is a fine choice. Drink up.
Paul Gregutt is a Contributing Editor for Wine Enthusiast magazine, a founding member of the magazine’s Tasting Panel, and reviews the wines of Oregon and Canada. The author of the critically-acclaimed Washington Wines & Wineries—The Essential Guide, he consulted on the Pacific Northwest entries in current versions of The World Atlas of Wine and The Oxford Companion to Wine.Email: firstname.lastname@example.org.