The vineyard is near the northwest edge of the Sonoma Coast, a wild, rugged mountainous region whose personality seems stamped on the wine. It's enormously rich in Dijonesque fruit, offering an array of red and black currants, cherries, pomegranates, anise, cinnamon and pepper. For all the opulence, the wine is dry and balanced. But it's just a baby. Hold until late 2010, if you can.