Heinrich Hartl 2014 Reserve Pinot Noir (Thermenregion)

This is brooding on the nose with the allure of an elderberry aroma. The same note dominates the palate which has a smooth, sensuous body, still held tight by brisk, fine tannin and lively acidity. There is almost stealthy, surprising grip. With its ample fruit this is already enticing, but structure and freshness promise more pleasure to come. Drink 2018–2028. Anne Krebiehl MW

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