There is a definite Volnay lushness here, despite severe tannins. The sweet acidity boosts the black currant flavors, while the dry edge gives a square structure. The final effect is of a rich, ripe wine.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.