A great Champagne, rich and full-bodied, with a fine mineral streak and almost of austerity that demands aging. It is tight on the structure, yet ripe on the mature fruit, which is changing into its secondary toast, walnut and quince. It could still age over five years or more.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.