Made partly from ungrafted Chenin Blanc planted in 1979, this is an astonishingly opulent wine. It has spice, white currants and acidity, with a tight texture underlying the super-ripe fruit.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.