Wines at 15.5% alcohol suggest too much of everything. This wine is no exception, with its heavily extracted character, bitter chocolate and wood perfumes. It should soften in 2–3 years, but will always be overweight.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.