This toasty, tannic, firmly structured wine still manages to show that the rich, silky fruit underneath will blossom when the spicy wood flavors have blended in. Give it two to three years. —R.V.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.